NJALD

New Jersey Agricultural Leadership Development Program travels to Italy

Class graffiti, Part I

(Editor’s Note: Mary Nikola, the director of the New Jersey Agricultural Leadership Development Program, asked a number of students to write pieces of the experience of their trip to Italy on Feb. 9-15. We plan to include these submissions over the next several issues of The New Jersey Farmer.)
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Italy
By JEFF DEN BREEJEN
It was finally time. Our long awaited much anticipated trip to Italy was finally set to begin. After surviving the interview process, the homework, the YMCA camp and several other experiences we were finally about to embark on our international trip.
As we sat at the gate, in between finishing up business, making phone calls or eating, we all had time to think about what lay ahead. For some it was the first time abroad, for some it was the first time to Italy, and for a select few it was the first time to travel to Italy with a group. It would definitely be a new unique experience for all, and a once in a lifetime occurrence. Many of us, if asked 3 years ago if we would ever go to Italy, would probably answer no, or I would like to go, but don’t think I will ever be able to go.
After we boarded, it all began to become more real, and many thoughts and questions were going through our heads from where are we sleeping, on hay in a barn or on 1000 thread count sheets in the Hilton? Would there be cranberries? What kind of landscaping do they have there? Is it going to rain or be warm and sunny? Would the pizza, pasta and wine be really as good as we have heard? What kind of fish do they have? What will the old cathedrals look like? Do they speak English? And how did we end up being the privileged few from NJ to travel to Italy.
With all these many thoughts and questions we sat waiting on the plane……only to be interrupted by….. “Please fasten your seatbelt, and place all tray tables in the upright and locked position”……and we were off.
(Jeff den Breejen is the greenhouse manager at Ednie Flower Bulb, Inc. in Fredon.)
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The Vatican
By KELLY MADDEN
Friday, Feb. 9 - Fresh off a plane from a seven-and-half-hour flight from Newark Airport, New Jersey to Rome, Italy, the New Jersey Agricultural Leadership Development Program international trip for Class 6 hit the ground running. Our first stop was the Vatican City State, which is situated on Vatican hill, on the right bank of the Tiber River, within the city of Rome.
The Vatican City State, sovereign and independent, is the survivor of the papal states that in 1859 comprised an area of some 17,000 sq mi (44,030 sq km). During the struggle for Italian unification, from 1860 to 1870, most of this area became part of Italy. By an Italian law of May 13, 1871, the temporal power of the pope was abrogated, and the territory of the papacy was confined to the Vatican and Lateran palaces and the villa of Castel Gandolfo. The popes consistently refused to recognize this arrangement. The Lateran Treaty of Feb. 11, 1929, between the Vatican and the kingdom of Italy, established the autonomy of the Holy See.
Vatican City is itself of great cultural significance. Buildings such as St. Peter’s Basilica and the Sistine Chapel are home to some of the most famous art in the world, which includes works by artists such as Botticelli, Bernini and Michelangelo. The Vatican Library and the collections of the Vatican Museums are of the highest historical, scientific and cultural importance. In 1984, the Vatican was added by UNESCO to the List of World Heritage Sites; it is the only one to consist of an entire country. Our first stop was amazing it was filled with history, art, and culture.
(Kelly Madden is the coordinator of programs and administration at the New Jersey Museum of Agriculture in North Brunswick.)
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Cantine Lungarotti, Wine Tasting
By NICHOLAS POLANIN
Saturday, Feb. 10 - Our first full day in the Umbria Region of Italy began with a continental breakfast at Il Tamantino, our agritourismo, followed by a short bus ride to Cantine Lungarotti, where we met with Vincenczo Pepe, the wine master. Cantine (translated as Vineyard or Wine Maker) Lungarotti is known throughout Italy and the worldwide wine industry as a highly innovative producer who single-handedly created the Torgiano denomination and introduced Cabernet Sauvignon to Umbria. His daughters now produce two individual Chardonnays — Aurente and I Palazzi — and a fine red IGT, San Giorgio.
Interestingly enough, it was in 2000 when his daughters took a leadership role in the business that a major reinvestment took place in grape processing and wine making at Lungarotti’s, including mechanized harvesting equipment and state-of-the-art fermentation and maturation technology. They also took leadership in hiring Mr. Pepe, who studied winemaking in France and Germany, and continues to study for his professional development and for the success of Lungarotti.
Pruning the vines remains a hands-on labor-intensive task for this vineyard. The class learned that the term “Chianti” literally means the blending of four grapes, with a Sangiovese base. The vineyard encompasses 500 acres, with the oldest vines being 40 years old. The vineyard produces 2,500 pounds of grapes per acre, which translates into 3,000,000 bottles of wine annually sold. Cantine Lungarotti employs 40 people, mostly seasonal labor (migrant farm workers) from Northern Africa. Water, labor, financing, IPM for weed, pest and disease control, the value of the Euro, and competition are challenges facing this vineyard and growers throughout Italy — sound familiar?
Following this vineyard tour, we took a short bus ride to Torgiano for a lunch and wine tasting at Osteria Lungarotti. The class was treated to what was billed as a light lunch, but we learned soon enough that seconds and thirds (and fourths) were the norm in Italy for almost any meal, along with special pairings for white and red wines, and even a dessert wine for dipping cookies. We learned how to properly taste wines and were treated to locally produced olive oil, balsamic vinegar and grape juice, breads, coro (the Italian cousin of our common head cheese), wines (of course!), proscuitto, and several cow and sheep cheeses. Since the European Union community regulates agriculture, production and marketing throughout Europe, farmers in Umbria are limited in their (cow) milk production, making sheep cheese more widely produced and available throughout the region. These multi-country agreements are being regularly revisited and updated, with 2013 being a benchmark year for several production agreements.
Cantine Lungarotti recently announced a new business partnership here in the United States with Bedford International, an importer of fine Italian wines which goes back to 1949. The family spirit and the constant pursuit of quality -— in production for Lungarotti and in distribution for Bedford — will provide a “passport” for all members of NJALDP’s Class 6 to enjoy several Lungarotti vintages in the future.
(Nicholas Polanin is an agricultural agent for Rutgers Cooperative Extension in Somerset County.)
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Chianina Cattle Farm
By JILL KOEHLER
Sunday, Feb. 11 - Our Sunday morning drive led us to the rolling pastures outside of Todi, where we toured Fattoria Luchetti’s Chianina cattle farm. These great white cows came to Italy in 1000 B.C. and are now protected by the Italian government. Originating in the Chiana Valley known for their Chianti wines, explains why their breed sounds very similar to that very popular drink.
Known for their high red meat yields, with minimal loss in processing, the breed is known for their heavy muscling, leanness in meat, long life spans, and is virtually problem-free. Their temperament is usually very docile as we quickly saw as the herdsman lead their prize bull from his stall. Standing easily above all our heads, and weighing over 3,000 pounds, this 6-year old bull gladly stood for a photo opportunity with us Americans.
This sire is used for 80 percent of the breeding, with the remaining 20 percent done artificially. As many U.S. cattle breeders, the Chianina cattle industry recognizes the importance of hybrid vigor, and this operation has been crossing their high genetics with Simmental and Limousine genetics, to rear a more growthy offspring with extra carcass value and a more current look to the frame, seen in today’s beef cattle.
The income from this operation did not come from cattle alone. They also bred sheep, swine and horses, all regionally native breeds for meat production. The meat is direct marketed from their in-house butcher shop. The majority of their clientele come from hours away, some as far as Rome. They are only open for 4 days of the week, but have no problems selling multiple cows, sheep, and lamb in that time frame.
The animals and meat are tracked with a little card the size of a common credit card, in a totally voluntary process by the producers. As the cut is purchased, the card is inserted into the scale/register and that weight is deducted from the total dress weight of that animal. It was very interesting to compare what the Italian livestock producers are voluntarily implementing versus what the U.S. is proposing for our animal identification program, which is being met with great hesitation from our livestock industry.
As with many farms in Italy, they have a very diverse enterprise. In addition to the livestock business, the family also runs an agricultural bed and breakfast, referred to as an agritourismo in Italian, and they produce their own olive oil. Oh what a great feast that combination must make!
(Jill Koehler is the New Jersey Grazing Lands Specialist for the USDA-Natural Resources Conservation Service in Clinton.)
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Aquaculture
By JOSEPH J. MYERS
Monday, Feb. 12 - Except for our departure for the airport on the final day of our visit to Italy, Day 4 or Feb. 12 was our earliest start of the entire visit. We had a quick breakfast and were on the road before 6:45 a.m. Our three-hour northbound bus out of Umbria Region to the Emilia-Romagna Region necessitated such an early start. Our destination was the Po Delta region, which occupies an extremely large lowland and brackish water wetland area along the Adriatic Coast. Our particular destination was the town of Goro.
Of course along the way, we got to experience a bit of our guide’s frustration on the E45, a mountain highway from Perugia to Ravenna, that is famous for being long on budget, short on drivability, and corruption-laden from project start through project finish. For many, this is not too dissimilar from public works projects in the United States. It was apparently still shorter than the Autostrade 1 (A1), which is the main toll thoroughfare through Italy.
Leaving the Apennines and traveling into the coastal plain was a welcomed change of scenery, and quite a drastic one at that. Although the Apennines are much higher and geologically more recent than any mountains we have in New Jersey. It was analogous to driving out of western Sussex County directly into Salem County. Although we were not traversing during peak growing season, less temperature variation in the lowlands let us see what would surely be ample vegetable and tree fruit production in the months to follow. We did see the red leaves and stalks that remained from a recent harvest of red endive. An orchard of unusually bulky trees was to bear persimmons. Our guide explained the etymology of the word “persimmon” as coming from a note left on this particular, and at the time, unknown fruit found during a Roman expedition to the Orient. The note was addressed to a renowned Roman botanist for his help in identification, or “per simon”. However, the Wikipedia listing for persimmon states the word origin of persimmon is a bit closer to home, being the word for “dry fruit” from an Algonquian language of the eastern United States (Anonymous 2007). Whatever the origin of the word “persimmon”, the main focus of this day’s visit was to learn about the shellfish aquaculture in Italy.
Fittingly so, the transition from tree fruit to aquaculture, caused me to encounter, at least for me, my first “false friend” or better yet false cognate, between English and Italian. Having a pretty good grasp of Spanish, I found it hard to believe that the Italian word pesca means “peach” and not at least something to do with fish (note the name of the Fishermen’s Cooperative below). There was one Italian word I had to unlearn.
It is impossible to continue without first acknowledging the help of Walter J. Canzonier, President of the New Jersey Aquaculture Association and resident Delaware Bay shellfish culture expert and historian, who is located on the banks of the Maurice River. Walt has extensive consulting experience in this particular region of Italy, and is quite famous for his contributions to their shellfish research and industry. His contacts were the key in getting us the quality visit we enjoyed.
The Consorzio Pescatori di Goro was our first destination and Dr. Edoardo Turolla was our host. Dr. Turolla is a professor at the nearby Università degli Studi di Ferrara and works closely with the technical and scientific needs of the members of the Consorzio Pescatori di Goro through the C.Ri.M. (Centro Ricerche sui Molluschi or Mollusk Research Center) based at Goro. The cooperative has been in existence for over 80 years but only got into aquaculture within the past 20 years. Their two major products are cozze y vongole verace or mussels and manila clams. Manila clam culture techniques are actually quite similar to hard clam culture in New Jersey. Manila clam seed is produced with assistance from the C.Ri.M and purchased by members of the cooperative and planted on the bottom in the nearby shallow lagoon areas. Hard clam farmers in New Jersey buy their seed from private hatcheries and plant their seed on leased bottom intertidal areas. New Jersey clam farmers use plastic screens to deter blue crabs, cownose rays, waterfowl, and sometimes bipedal predators, whereas Italian clam farmers use no screens or other predator protection devices.
Because the farmed Manila clams come from the second tier classification of water quality and they are a product destined for raw consumption, they must undergo a six to eight hour depuration process before they can be marketed. New Jersey aquaculture hard clams can be marketed directly from the leases. Only wild hard clams from northern New Jersey need to undergo a depuration process. Shellfish sanitation protocols here mandate 48 hours. We also saw a good diversity of shellfish products in the cold storage areas waiting to be shipped to both Italian markets and to export markets in other EU member countries. In addition to manila clams and mussels, we also saw packaged European oysters, smooth clams, razor clams, and wedge shell clams. The most intriguing characteristic is that these products come from a good mix of wild fisheries and aquaculture at high volumes. None of our six New Jersey ports match this same product and production diversity as well as Goro. With the exception of the relatively small landings of oysters (cultured) and crabs and conch (wild) in Port Norris, the other Atlantic Coast ports land exclusively wild product.
There were more stark contrasts between shellfish aquaculture in Italy and shellfish aquaculture in New Jersey. Hatchery and depuration technology seemed pretty similar to that utilized here in New Jersey, but that is where the similarities in infrastructure ended. The Consorzio Pescatori di Goro also owns large processing, packing, cold storage, and shipping facilities. These facilities are needed because the scale of aquaculture from this cooperative is orders of magnitude greater than the shellfish culture in New Jersey. Manila clams alone, only in the Goro area, account for roughly $20 million in farm-gate sales, whereas New Jersey clam production totals $2.1 million. Accounting for the other products, and all products produced by other cooperatives in the other regions of Italy, you can quickly see that Italy is a major aquaculture producer.
Consorzio Pescatori di Goro consists of over 500 members, of which 388 are active growers. American growers tend to have much more of an independent philosophy on managing their operations. Although the cooperative process certainly does exist among U.S. growers, for whatever regulatory, social, or business reasons, it seems much more difficult for American producers to organize at a magnitude similar to what we observed in Italy. However, greater organization among both aquaculturists and commercial fishermen may be necessary to competing against foreign production that accounts for over 70% of the seafood we consume domestically.
A small mussel farming industry and commercial demonstration exists in other parts of the Northeast, and although there is some recent interest in offshore commercial mussel aquaculture in New Jersey, mussel culture in New Jersey is essentially non-existent at any detectable commercial level.
The techniques used in Italy to grow mussels involve offshore systems using long lines anchored and attached to floats. The mussels are placed in large net “socks” which are suspended from these lines. Results can be obtained by anchoring these same structures on the bottom, avoiding some of the perceived and real conflicts that are associated with culture on the surface. Mussel culture techniques in Italy certainly showed what we are capable of in New Jersey, which could also be adapted to grow our native oyster. All human-related activities impart their own footprint, but shellfish aquaculture is one of those unique segments of agriculture, that if done with good management practices, can have a net positive environmental benefit. In addition it can provide a positive economic benefit to our existing commercial fishing ports and the surrounding regions into which these products are sold.
The visit to Consorzio Pescatori di Goro showed the members of NJALDP Class VI enough similarities and contrasts to New Jersey to conclude that, like Italy, we have the technology, natural resources, and proximity to well-paying markets to become an aquaculture producing state with a respectable farm-gate production. Overcoming barriers to domestic growth starts with more partnerships among ALL members of the seafood industry, wild-caught and aquaculture producers alike. Public education is the biggest hurdle that this cooperation should address, but it is the most difficult to get a handle on. Despite the strong bias from the media against certain aquaculture sectors, focused on certain aspects of operations in those sectors, and often rooted agenda-driven activities of non-profit organizations, aquaculture is a term as broad and diverse as agriculture itself. Additionally, aquaculture today is much more efficient and environmentally compatible than it was 40 years ago, just as it will be 40 years from now as it is today. The general public needs to understand that aquaculture growth WILL happen. The question is whether we make the effort to properly develop aquaculture domestically and reap (rather seine or rake) the economic benefits, or if we continue to pass along this growth to another part of the world and trust they will meet our standards.
With Italian aquaculture production fresh in our minds, our next visit that day allowed us to see how Consorzio Pescatori di Goro and other similar cooperatives from around the various regions develop markets for and promote their products at the Sixth International Mediterranean Seafood Show in Rimini.
(Joseph J. Myers is an Aquaculture Development Specialist at the New Jersey Department of Agriculture in Trenton.)

Class graffiti, Part II

(Editor’s Note: Mary Nikola, the director of the New Jersey Agricultural Leadership Development Program, asked a number of students to write pieces of the experience of their trip to Italy on Feb. 9-15. We have been including these submissions over the last several issues of The New Jersey Farmer. This is the third of the series.)
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Gardens at the University of Perugia
By HEATHER McNEIL-NAZARETH
The ag leadership class toured the capitol region of Umbria to visit the beautiful gardens of the Agriculture Department at the University of Perugia. Inscribed on a large rock at the entrance to the herb garden was a Roman palindrome — an arrangement of letters that can be read in multiple directions.
The palindrome can be interpreted in multiple ways, and was roughly translated to our group as “The farmer keeps the earth turning,” which makes reference to the physical action of the plow, the importance of the farmer in our everyday lives, as well as the practice of rotating crops.
There is a long history of agricultural education in the region of Umbria, going back to the time of Saint Benedict, the patron saint of agriculture, who was born in Umbria in 480 AD.
Due to the turmoil and invasions that occurred in central Italy during the collapse of the Roman Empire, the region’s inhabitants had lost all significant agricultural know-how.
The study of agriculture, however, did survive in the convents and monasteries, and it became one of the key missions of the Benedictine monks to re-educate the people about how to cultivate the land. Saint Benedict did not invent the concept of crop rotation, but he did re-introduce the practice.
Moving past the palindrome, we entered a garden with familiar medicinal and culinary herbs, as well as some less familiar plants that carry strong historical importance in Italy and Europe.
The twigs of the thorny “Pungitopo” plant were wrapped around hams, salami and cheeses during storage to deter rodents.
In fact, the same plant is called “maŸserdorn” or “mice-thorn” in German, indicating that it had a similar function throughout Europe. The laurel plant was used to make wreaths for triumphant athletes in Greek and Roman society, and it is still used today to adorn the heads of University students after they successfully defend their thesis projects.
To the right side of the herb garden, we found a small waterfall and a series of steps leading up to a stone ledge that overlooked a beautiful valley dotted with olive trees, vineyards and houses with terracotta roofs — all this with a backdrop of snow-capped mountains!
Even though it was still winter and the grape vines lacked green vegetation, the scenery did not disappoint us.
We paused to enjoy the view, and then continued on to the opposite side of the herb garden, into the “Symbolic Medieval Garden.”
In the center of the garden was a twisted but noble-looking olive tree that symbolized light and knowledge. Surrounding the olive tree were the astrological symbols and walking paths.
Around the perimeter of the garden ran a stream of water that symbolized the origin of life.
The sound of the running water, combined with the sage green, almost powdery blue foliage of the olive tree, gave the garden a fairy-tale appearance.
Founded in the year 1386, The University of Perugia now has approximately 32,000 students.
The Agriculture Department is a very large and important part of the University, with about 8,000 students majoring in Agriculture-related fields.
Some programs of study include 3-year degrees in food science technology, biotechnology, landscape management, viticulture and enology (wine making!), and a master’s degree program in olive growing and olive technology.
Italian universities, in general, are somewhat more expensive than those in other European countries, yet still comparatively less than those in the United States.
Although our visit to the university was short, it was a nice combination of history, culture, and agriculture.
Somehow it seemed that the stress and strain of earning a college degree might be more palatable at a university with this much beauty and history.
(Heather McNeil-Nazareth is the education coordinator/resource specialist at the Mercer County Soil Conservation District in Hamilton.)
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Visit with an agricultural lender
By BEN THOMPSON
While in Perugia, the class visited with Giuseppe Mariani, the agricultural lending director from UniCredit Bank.
The meeting took place in a very elaborate boardroom located in their downtown branch office.
Mr. Mariani explained the economics of agriculture in Italy from the bank’s perspective.
UniCredit has aggressively marketed farmers as borrowers throughout Italy only in the last three to four years.
Prior to that, no steady source of capital was available to farmers on a widespread basis.
What changed?
Italy joined the European Union and there was some type of agricultural provision.
The European Union provides very large subsidies to Italian farmers, and it is not a production-based program.
Rather, it is based on the amount of land in any type of agricultural production. Without these subsidies, Mr. Mariani indicated that most farms would not qualify for loans from his organization.
UniCredit Bank utilizes custom-designed software to accurately analyze the accrual earnings of their farm loan clients.
Without this, earnings information on a year-by-year basis would resemble the roller coaster-like earnings trends of American farmers.
UniCredit’s loan programs are very similar to that which are offered in the U.S. They have both operating and capital credit lines. Long-term mortgages for farmland that carry very low interest rates are subsidized by the Italian government and are available through UniCredit.
(Ben Thompson is a credit representative with First Pioneer Farm Credit in Lebanon.)
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Nursery tour
By JEFF LINK
As part of the international trip for the New Jersey Agricultural Leadership Development Program, we toured a nursery production facility in Spello, Italy named UmbraFlor.
They have two locations in central Italy, Spello and Gubbio.
The nursery tour was extensive from biomass technology producing all the heat for the residences and greenhouse and propagation houses to truffle culture (tartuficoltura) and normal production of plant material you might view in New Jersey.
The nursery is also unique in that it is partially owned by the government and by a private entity.
Though it was a long tour for some, I think our host Dr. Miraldi showed us the most complete tour of all the places we visited.
He described the nursery business through religion, culture and travel, as he tied a story with each question that was asked.
With regards to truffle culture, I thought our host Dr. Miraldi did a great job explaining the “contaminating” of cuttings with truffle spores.
The union of the seedling and the truffle spore is viewed as a marriage.
The inoculated plants are kept in a sealed greenhouse with limited entry and after a select period of time that varies with genus type, the union of seedling and spore “takes”. If the union “takes” then the plants are considered consummated and the marriage is deemed a success.
The plants are certified and a premium price is charged for the plant.
There is no guarantee that the plant will produce truffles down the road, just a certification that the spore is alive and growing on the root system of the cutting.
The ability to grow these spores in a cultured environment is a closely guarded secret, known to very few people outside of UmbraFlor’s doors. We were fortunate to observe a small part of this secret.
Plant material used for this process are Oak (Quercus Ilex, robar, pubescens, cerris), Linden (Tilia cordata), Italian Stone Pine (Pinus pinea), European Filbert (Corylus avellana) and Hop Hornbeam (Ostrya carpinifolia) culture.
The plants are available to anyone willing to pay for them.
Much of the plants in this nursery are container grown.
Large material up to 20-feet is grown in these containers with suitable guy wires and overhead irrigation. They did have several acres of field grown material that was similar to their container production. Much of the growing is similar to New Jersey nurseries with many of the same plants observed. We did find several different varieties of Cypress not found in New Jersey and also an evergreen Oak that is very popular in that region.
We were informed why Black Cypress trees are used in cemeteries. They were viewed originally growing wild in and about the rock and their growth was interpreted as creating a way for the spirit to ascend into heaven when the body is buried in the earth.
Now cypress trees are purposely planted for this reason in cemeteries and burial plots. We saw many Umbrella Pines in various sizes that are used for pine nuts and pesto sauces.
Many olive trees were also observed, from one-year old saplings to the elder 300-year specimens that are planted in front of estates for their resplendent features.
We also learned that seed collecting for propagating must be taken from state certified forests, which is different from the United States.
No collection may occur outside these certified areas, greatly increasing the cost of plant material.
The property where the Spello Nursery resides is currently heated with biomass technology.
Becoming more popular in the U.S., this form of energy is produced by wood chips deposited in a bin with an auger that rations the amount of material that is deposited into the furnace.
The heat from the furnace warms pipes with flowing water.
This heated water is then routed to the various buildings being heated. Biomass and radiant heating 101.
Overall the trip to Italy was an exiting experience that all of us in the Leadership program were fortunate to experience.
Thanks to all who made the trip possible for Class 6, especially the Gloucester County Board of Agriculture and the New Jersey Nursery and Landscape Association.
(Jeff Link is a landscape contractor with Virgo’s Landscaping and Nurseries in Franklinville.)
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Visit to Il Frantoio Olive Oil mill, Trevi, Umbria, Italy
By NICOLE GOGER
On our last day in Italy, Class 6 visited an olive oil mill, something we would not be able to see in New Jersey.
The Il Frantoio olive oil mill in Trevi is the largest in the Umbria region, which is to say it’s not very big!
Our tour guide, Werner, warned us that this would not be the “romantic” vision of an olive oil mill with old wooden presses, but rather a high tech, processing facility with stainless steel machinery and computers doing the work.
During the visit, we watched a video about olive oil and took a tour of the pressing and bottling facility.
Olive trees are an integral part of the landscape of Umbria, which is known for its high quality olive oil products. The high quality is attributed to the soils and the climate of the region.
Umbrian olive oil has a deep green color and very low acidity. All of the olive oil produced at Il Frantoio is extra virgin olive oil, which means it comes from the first press and is the best quality.
The remnants of the first press at this mill are used as nutrients and are spread among the olive trees; they are never pressed more than once.
Olive trees can live and produce fruit for hundreds, even thousands of years if they are growing under perfect conditions.
Most olive trees, however, live and produce olives for 30-40 years.
The olives used to make oil at Il Frantoio are all harvested by hand from October through December. No olives are picked up off the ground.
At the beginning of the harvest, the olives are not at their ripest and so this oil takes on a different flavor than that which comes from the later harvests where more of the olives are at the peak of ripeness.
The oil that comes from the later harvest is considered to be the best; however, it is not differentiated when it is sold.
To wrap up the afternoon, our hosts at Il Frantoio treated us to a tour of the facility, and of course, a tasting of their olive oil.
The olive oil was drizzled over lightly toasted bread and then seasoned with sea salt.
Of course, the olive oil tasting was accompanied by some delicious Umbrian wine! The majority of the class bought several bottles of this wonderful olive oil before heading off to Spoletto.
(Nicole Goger is a research associate at New Jersey Farm Bureau in Trenton.)
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Umbria
By MEREDITH COMPTON
Umbria is a region of Italy with over 3,000 years of history that is found away from the main tourist areas.
This region is not only rich with agricultural, but also with old towns steeped in history.
Umbria is made up of 92 small medieval towns, including the astonishing art and artifacts of Assisi, the rich culture of Spoleto, and the University in Perugia that was founded at the end of the 12th century, and is one of the oldest in Europe.
Umbria is located in central Italy and is encompassed by the Apennine mountain range.
The Tiber River, famous for being the main waterway for the city of Rome, cuts its way through Umbria on its way to Tuscany.
Agriculture is an important part of its economy, the olive oil is well known, and Umbria produces the most truffles in Italy.
This region is also recognized for its many varieties of wine. The climate of Umbria and the landscape makes the cultivation of vineyards easier than in other parts of Italy.
The Umbrian cuisine is based on family traditions with fresh and natural flavors derived from locally grown produce and farmed animals.
The ceramic products from towns such as Gubbio and Orvieto are famous worldwide.
When you visit Umbria you are overwhelmed by the sight of numerous picturesque towns perched on the hilltops.
Many of these towns have rich Etruscan origins and are the home of medieval and Renaissance art.
The towns have preserved their medieval character and offer opportunities for walks and exploration. Perugia, where chocolate has been made since the 12th Century, is the administrative capital of Umbria and is filled with remains of its Etruscan and Roman past.
Perugia is also a cultural center with several universities and offers important museums and architecture. One of the most famous Umbrian towns is Assisi, a pilgrimage site that is the birthplace of St. Francis (1182-1226 AD).
St. Francis is the founder of the famous order of friars known as the Franciscans. One of the most amazing sights in Spoleto is the Ponte delle Torri.
This massive structure was built in the 14th century and functioned as both a bridge and aqueduct.
Orvieto, built on tufa cliffs high above the valley, is the home of a magnificent cathedral, impressive works of art, and a center for ceramics.
The cathedral, built around 1263, is undoubtedly the most important architectural landmarks in the city. The Gothic façade of the Duomo is striking and the inside of the cathedral contains many remarkable sculptures and frescos, including the masterpiece the “Last Judgment.”
This region offers peace and tranquility to any traveler but is also only a short train ride to other popular tourist destinations such as Venice, Florence, Rome and Milan.
(Meredith Compton operates Peaceful Valley Orchards in Pittstown.)

What does an international experience in Italy have to do with New Jersey agriculture and leadership development?
On the surface it is obvious that the NJALDP class would have the opportunity to experience both another culture and learn about agriculture on the other side of the Atlantic.
But traveling in a group of 25 in an educational format is not so easy.
The jam-packed, rigorous seven-day educational junket throughout Italy offered numerous lessons and personal insights.
Scott Ashley noted, “Farmers don’t tend to get off the farm much and this seminar is maybe the only thing that might get some of us to see how things are done differently or even similar to us.”
While Heather McNeil Nazareth shared “exposure to another culture has the potential to help people reflect upon themselves and gain a wider perspective on how they interact with others.”
Danny Hsieh observed “the international seminar offered both a cultural and agricultural experience which provided the class the challenge of adapting to an unfamiliar culture.”
Measuring Value
So what is the value of this wider view and the challenge of adapting?
From Nick Polanin’s perspective, “seeing agriculture in another land with another language, history, culture, and currency breaks us out of our ‘shell’ to see things in a different light — whether looking at others differently or hopefully looking at ourselves differently. We can challenge ourselves to be better than we were, or better than people may expect of us simply because of a last name or family, or we can remain in the same rut, complaining and whining about how things are and seeking someone to blame rather than taking on the initiative to make a difference through example and leadership. And leadership is not simply running for an office or being selected a chair or association president – it’s much more than that! It is embracing and living the example of leadership in our daily lives — listening to people, hearing what’s not said, explaining a position calmly and logically, drawing consensus, making decisions and standing by them, looking out for and providing for the good of the entire group.”
Furthermore, Stephen V. Lee IV added “the international trip forces farmers in New Jersey to understand that we are in a global economy regardless of where they live and work. The U.S. is no longer too far away and separated by two massive bodies of water. The New Jersey farmer is just a mouse-click away from the rest of the world. I think the international trip provides the opportunity to understand how New Jersey agriculture can affect the rest of or another part of the world.”
As a cohort learning program, NJALDP provides a cooperative and collaborative environment, which establishes context, promotes dialogue from diverse perspectives, and consequently expands the perspective of the learning cohorts themselves.
By its very design, cohort learning fosters camaraderie and shared activities where ideas are born from conversations over shared experiences and insights.
On the international learning opportunity Damon Williams reflected, “I think that when a group of people from a particular industry have the collective opportunity as a cohort to learn more about the whole of their industry — it significantly enhances the development of that industry. Affording a group upward mobility through an international experience proves to be critical for both collective and individual development and understanding of the world in which we all live. Comparing ideas and learning new techniques about living and working together in situations that may not be ideal is a key learning experience. The travel seminar demonstrated the value of being and working with people who, in other circumstances we may have avoided; but through this experience we find ways to thrive. This observation is even more significant today as we see how small our world has become. We are impacted across the globe by food prices, gas prices, clothes, cars, and, more importantly, security and safety.”
Highlights of the Journey
Upon return for the international travel, many were asked what was it like? What did you see or learn?
Nick Polanin reported, “I learned that Italy is going through very tough times, with a shrinking native population, immigration from North Africa, and agricultural producers who are married to tradition as much as they embrace new technologies. Their birth rate is so low that in 50 years or so, Italy will cease to exist as we know it today if this continues. Much of Europe is facing the same problems, especially considering the impacts of WW1 and WW2. Agritourism and the wine industry are the strongest in Italy, and will continue to thrive as long as the local urban centers, the tourism industry, and export opportunities continue to thrive. Without these, their economy is very fragile, and could succumb to other European and American imports and trade issues.”
Heather McNeil Nazareth added, “I had a first-hand opportunity to see the importance of regional food specialties in Italian agriculture, as well as the marketing and branding of local products. The Italian public understands the value of buying products from local producers, and the producers understand the advantage of regional branding for their products. It was interesting to see the willingness with which the Italian cattle farmer adopted the use of an animal identification system, compared to producers here in the U.S.A. Considering the short duration of the trip, we truly did cover a lot of ground, and we had a wide range of experiences that couldn’t have been achieved here in the USA. It was valuable for me to visit farms that produce — and facilities that process — typical Italian and European products such as olive oil, wine, mozzarella cheese, truffles, etc. Sampling many of those regional specialties enhanced the experience.”
The highlights or the international seminar in Italy differ as much as the personality and interests of the class members themselves.
Meredith Compton noted “one of the lessons that I will take away from this trip is even though there are many subtle differences between agriculture in Italy and New Jersey, fundamentally we all face similar issues.”
John Van Pelt observed that “Italy has a migrant worker program with laborers from Africa that sounded similar to New Jersey’s proposed guest worker program. Some speakers expressed concerns over Poland’s admission into the E.U. had driven down labor prices and that the pending admission of Turkey would further perpetuate that trend. The ag banker mentioned that it is near impossible for a young person to become a farmer without having been born into it. Land is too scarce and too expensive. It was easy to some parallels with New Jersey.”
From a landscaper’s point of view, Jeff Link reflected, “ I wish I had a do-over. The agriculture-visits were indeed very worthwhile but the nursery was my highlight. Our host showed us the most complete tour not only nursery but truffle culture and biomass technology. He did a great job explaining the ‘contaminating’ of cuttings with truffle spores and the legal method for seed collection of tree material. We found out why Black Cypress trees are used in cemeteries and how sacred olive trees are magically ‘born’. Our guide blended the nursery with religion, culture and travel, as he tied a story with each question asked. It was a wonderful agritourism example linking agriculture with history and everyday life in Italy.”
In what way was Italy and New Jersey different or similar?
Jill Koehler noted “the differences between Italian culture and that of our own was easier to see than the similarities. Italy is very environmentally conscious; their individuality is seen through their wardrobe, not cars and other material objects. The U.S. talks big when it comes to energy conservation, but Italy walks the walk. The majority of their lights are on timers and motion sensors and their cars are smaller than some of our office desks! One similarity easily seen is we are on the right track with promoting diversified agriculture and especially sustainable agriculture. Many Italian farms are small in acreage, but produce multiple crops. The majority of the residential homes had back yards full of vegetable gardens and fruit, nut and olive trees.”
John Van Pelt observed “In the brief time we were in Italy, I got sense of this weird conflict between a nation that had such a rich understanding of its history and where it came from and a vague sense of National independence within the E.U. Italy won the World Cup Championship in soccer this past year yet while we were there I noticed only two Italian flags; one at the airport and one at the convention center. Even with all the current division and debate in the U.S. at this time, you can’t go a block from your house without seeing a proudly displayed flag.”
The context of leadership
Traveling can be stressful. Different foods, customs, language, time shift, lack of control, long tiring bus rides, close and continuous company and the rigor of go, go, go structured long days.
Reflecting on the international experience, it is important to also frame learning on the context of leadership.
Kouzes and Posner’s 5 Leadership Practices of 1) Model the way, 2) Inspire a shared vision 3) Challenge the process, 4) Enable others to act and 5) Encourage the heart presents an excellent framework to process the international experience in terms of leadership.
What did participants learn about their leadership capacity in Italy?
Some things were obvious.
Individuals were both flexible and open to the unexpected, unplanned, and the unpleasant. NJALDP participants initiated change when things weren’t going well, remained engaged, respected others’ areas of interest, demonstrated both tolerance and sensitivity and yes, acknowledged short tempers and misspoken words.
Jill Koehler added, “The intent of the seminar was to strengthen and bring out a new level of leadership in each of us. Being thrown into another culture brought out our true colors. I don’t say this in a negative manner at all; my respect grew for some of my classmates. I saw real life examples of Kouzes and Posner’s model of Leadership Practices. The people who stepped up to the plate during the trying times, may not have been the people all of us would have expected. They showed true, unquestionable growth! There were some who just kept on trucking forward no matter how long of bus ride, or little of sleep; they modeled the way!”
On personal observations, Nick Polanin reflected. “I learned that I am more of a leader to some than to others — maybe because of my faculty position, or my age, or my personality — but I felt at times that I was asked questions more because people wanted and valued my opinion rather than just to make conversation. I learned that I can handle change and adversity, that I can adapt, that I can lend an impartial assessment in assisting others in working out conflict, and that I love Italy! Their history alone will draw me back there in the future.”
But what is the impact? What could the long-term results be?
Joe Myers noted, “The true value of the international trip is what the class brings back and implements. Sometimes this is an immediate thing. In other instances, it may take several months or even years before one is able to apply something they have learned. When you invest in people, you can’t punch in a few letters and see the instantaneous performance of your portfolio. For this reason, I believe it is important to try as hard as possible to find ways to fit in what one takes away from the experience. Class VI owes it to the NJALDP Board and ourselves to stay engaged in the program. Personally, I took back plenty from Italy and I continue to analyze how “what I learned and observed” in Italy compares and contrasts with my field.
I was completely impressed with the certification rigor that the Chianina cattle farm goes through to separate their product from other beef. I have seen mass-balance accounting with pesticides and chemicals, but never in food products.
Could this someday be an emerging aspect of local food here in the U.S.A.? The green energy boiler at UmbraFlor showed that alternative energy can make business-sense. With the olive trees and black cypress, UmbraFlor was also a good way to implement agriculture into the history we were immersed in. The process for inoculating hardwood saplings with truffle spores was truly impressive. Does anybody plan to implement a new technology learned in Italy into their operation? Sure, we can read about everything I’ve talked about above and wrote in my article. How are all of these influenced by, or how do they influence mindset, politics, and socioeconomics of a different culture? That is something one can only experience by the stamp of a passport.”
The international seminar is a capstone event for the NJALDP learning cohort, which is designed to provide exposure to new and different experiences in agriculture, culture, infrastructure and every day life of the host country.
Through this experience, NJALDP participants draw lessons on leadership.
The international travel seminar was very successful.
The flight was uneventful, all the agriculture experiences were top shelf, the cultural and historical visits were excellent and the guide was extremely knowledgeable.
The international tradeshow stretched the comfort level of some.
It took a three-hour bus ride to get there; and then the venue was unfamiliar to many in the class.
It worked well in positioning some of the class out of their comfort zone, creating a great learning opportunity.
On fostering leadership development Stephen V. Lee IV commented, “Before the trip to Italy, I wasn’t sure this was a necessary component of the Leadership Program. However, after the trip and some reflection after our return, I have a couple of thoughts. Because of the language barrier, the trip forces newly trained leaders to not only adapt, but to continue the use of their newly developed leadership skills within a very unfamiliar environment. Perhaps the best example of that was the food show in Rimini. Because of the language barrier, it was very difficult for most to enjoy the opportunity of tasting and learning about foods from a foreign land. The leaders were forced to either adapt and take advantage of the opportunity to attend the show, resist or criticize the decision to attend the show in the first place. How leaders react to challenges is what helps shape them as a person. Leaders do not become great by reacting to simple challenges within a familiar environment. Leaders become great by facing the challenges and excelling despite an unfamiliar and hostile environment.”
Closing thoughts
Accommodations were rustic; this is a study seminar not a vacation or even a business trip.
The class experienced the typical stress of traveling. Tempers were short, nerves frayed.
Class 6 grew both as individuals and as a group.
But what did the travelers think? What about personal growth and insights?
Jill Koehler noted, “For some of us, this was the first time we were a true minority. I don’t mean like a woman in a man’s industry, or middle class at an upper-class event; I mean true minority; being thrown into something so foreign, nothing is understood or recognizable. It brings a feeling of vulnerability and loneliness, and brought me a new appreciation and sympathy for those who start a new life this way, or worse yet, thrown into this type of situation against their own will. I gained a new respect for anything considered ‘different’. I now know what it is like to be considered ‘different’; and not understanding the ‘norm’ can be very intimidating. To some of us, the thought that we were now representing our industry to these highly regarded Italian agricultural representatives became a bit overwhelming. We may be their only contact with U.S. agriculture, so it was a test on our technical understanding and art of communication skills. I learned many lessons in those seven days, but the one that will stay vivid in my mind for a very long time is to approach others with a very open mind. Take the time to learn their story before making assumptions. Another lesson I realize is that as a class and even within the agriculture industry, we need to recognize we are all on the same team. My view is that whether you production agriculture or ‘ag-business’, we need to focus on our shared goal and work as a team.”
Finally, leadership is about vision — the ability to influence or motivate others to willingly follow to a place they wouldn’t necessarily go alone.
The skill set for today’s leaders is long and varied but the ability to effectively communicate the vision is top on the list.
In summing up the value of the international travel seminar and its impact on NJALDP Class VI, John Van Pelt observed, “Communicating honestly and being able to create and capture interest in what you are saying seems to be a common trait of leaders. Even though there was a language barrier, you could tell the difference between those that were managers and those that were leaders. The gentleman in charge of the nursery seemed like an innovator and a leader. The owner of the cheese factory seemed like a very good manager. Even if I am completely wrong about these two men, that’s how they presented themselves; that’s the impression I’m left with. I’ll never see them again; my only impression is my first impression. It’s not only what you say, or even what language it’s in, it’s how you say it. Have we presented ourselves in such a way that people care to listen?”
A colleague of mine once mused that learning takes place in advance of travel as the travelers pack, plan and organize their lives at home and work to accommodate their absence.
Learning continues during the journey as the travelers are exposed to new and different experiences; and learning extends well after the trip as the travelers continue to process and assimilate their experiences into their work and personal lives.
In preparation for the international travel seminar, many NJALDP participants attended language classes brushing up on their Italian; others researched and identified contacts in Italy for site visits; while others meet in advance with New Jersey agriculture businesses to broker information between Italy and New Jersey.
During the journey, participants demonstrated tolerance with back-to-back, 12-hour days and long, grueling bus rides and flexibility with last minute schedule changes.
Others initiated change when things weren’t going as best they could.
Participants stayed engaged, respecting others’ areas of interest.
Misspoken words were acknowledged and participants coached and supported each other through back home personal and business crisis.
The biggest challenge for any leadership development initiative is in the transfer of learning from the classroom to the real world.
The series of articles presented in The New Jersey Farmer over the last several editions is evidence of NJALDP participants processing their experiences in light of their industry.
As Joe Myers articulated “the true value of the international trip is what the class brings back and implements. Sometimes this an immediate thing. In other instances it may take several months or even years before one is able to apply something they have learned. Class VI owes it to the NJALDP Board and ourselves to stay engaged in the Program. Personally, I took back plenty from Italy and I continue to analyze how ‘what I learned and observed’ in Italy compares and contrasts with my field.”
Look for more evidence of this transfer of learning from Class VI in the years to come.